The Wheel Demands it!!!! – spin it again….

Well, the Llealese Resistance is as done as I can make it right now. Waiting for 3 Avatars…

Yesterday morning, I took all of the Bases for Project Sisters: Et ex Patriarchus. Scrubbed them in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush. Rinsed them and let them dry.

In the afternoon, after I was done painting, I primed all of the bases with White Stynylres.

This afternoon, I looked up how I painted my original bases . The first color was Bootstrap Leather. I just ordered a new pot, the old one is running on empty. I scraped up enough to basecoat the two 120 mm bases.

I figure it is easier to spin again and see what I get. It is easier for me not to spend day after day on one project. Variety is fun. I deleted Llealese Resistance, so there are now there are 9 option. Then I spun the wheel.

Undercity/Widower’s Wood is a Privateer Boardgame. I think things are always more fun with painted model. I did a full set of Undercity last year. I swapped all the villains with a friend. He had painted his heroes. I don’t mind doing another set. It is not a new project, I already have over half of Undercity painted. The different races and variety of models give me a chance to try now colors and to experiment.

Here is a link that shows all the Undercity/Widower’s Wood Models……  Linky….

Off to the LGStore tomorrow….  Social painting, I hope…

Till next time….

Just do it…..

Posted in Basing, Boardgame, color wheel, Dragon Forge Base, Painting, Painting Motivation, project, Rant | Leave a comment

Project Ambidextrous Toucan: Update 16 – I thought I was done..

I pulled out the case of “Llealese Resistance”. I have not touched it since NOVA 2018. I will be honest, the changes to the theme list that came out a few days ago got me to look at this.

I had to do some touch-up. Every Model with a * had some work. A touch up, some shading or a full detail job. Some of it was cleaning up paint smudge which take a moment to fix. Other models needed buttons, buckles, skin, hair, cloths shading and a lot more.

Theme: Llaelese Resistance

Ashlynn d’Elyse – WJ: +29

–    Madelyn Corbeau, Ordic Courtesan – PC: 4

–    Vanguard – PC: 10 (Battlegroup Points Used: 10)

–    Vanguard – PC: 10 (Battlegroup Points Used: 10)

–    Mule – PC: 14 (Battlegroup Points Used: 9)

–    Rover – PC: 14

Drake MacBain – WJ: +30

–    Reinholdt, Gobber Speculator – PC: 4

–    Galleon – PC: 35

–    Nomad – PC: 12

–    Talon – PC: 7

*Caine’s Hellslingers – WJ: +20

–     *Caine’s Hellslingers (Cont.)

–    *Ace – PC: 10

*Lieutenant Crosse, Resistance Fighter – WJ: +29

–    *Sylys Wyshnalyrr, The Seeker – PC: 4

–    *Toro – PC: 13

Anastasia di Bray – PC: 3

*Eilish Garrity, the Occultist – PC: 0

*Gobber Tinker – PC: 2

Gorman Di Wulfe, Rogue Alchemist – PC: 4

Harlan Versh, Illuminated One – PC: 4

*Major Harrison Gibbs – PC: 4

Rhupert Carvolo, Piper of Ord – PC: 4

Rutger Shaw, Professional Adventurer – PC: 0

–    Nomad – PC: 12

*Sergeant Nicolas Verendrye – PC: 0

Taryn di la Rovissi, Llaelese Gun Mage – PC: 0

Ragman – PC: 4

Colbie Sterling, Captain of the BRI – PC: 3

*Gastone Crosse – PC: 4

Captain Sam MacHorne & the Devil Dogs – MacHorne & 9 Grunts: 18

–    Mangler – PC: 15

Dannon Blythe & Bull – Blythe & Bull: 5

Arcane Tempest Gun Mages – Leader & 5 Grunts: 11

–    Arcane Tempest Gun Mage Officer – PC: 4

–    Mule – PC: 14

*Thorn Gun Mages – Leader & 2 Grunts: 9

*Thorn Gun Mages – Leader & 2 Grunts: 9 ___________________

This theme list has so many options…

Menoth, Cygnar and Crucible Guard Units are all available. NO I AM NOT doing all of those..

To be honest The Piper was a gift from G’Day and Harlan was a gift from Plazoid.

My poor old Nomad has a broken sword. I will magnetize the new one (easier transporting). and paint it up

This post a mostly, look what I painted, thanks for looking.

I thought I had “finished” this theme. The new  Avatars will be out soon.  I will pick them up as soon as I can….


Three more model…

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing!!!

Till next time…

Just do it…


Posted in Painting, project, Theme List, warmachine | Leave a comment

The Wheel Demands it!!!!

There are times when I hit a Log Jam.  When I have to many projects on my desk or in my head. Cleaning desk usually happens, but that doesn’t always help..

G’Day from Lost Hemisphere has used a spinning wheel app to pick factions for quite a while…

I use Random Picker (free app) to make a wheel and spin it for a choice.

Honestly, sometimes I don’t like the wheel choice and spin again. If I get the same results, I have kept that choice. It is all about making a choice and working on that choice.

Painting and Basing are the usual options.

Just click on the + to make a new wheel. + again will add a new option to the wheel. Type in a description, pick a color. Repeat until you run out of ideas.

Then click on the disk in the upper right to save the wheel.

Select the wheel and it will look like this..

Some of the options are obvious, others are not.

UnderCity/WW is painting the board game models.

Cryx Project is Project Sisters: Et ex Patriarchus

Lleal is the theme I worked on last summer, there are a few models that need  details

Piggy Bases, Pig theme list, a lot of paint, but the bases are not consistent

Gators – Theme has a few unfinished models

Skorne – Xerxis 2 – Rhino for the win

Convergence – a couple of units and Solos need work

New Pirates

Monpoc stuff

Capt D/Rocinante
So Llealese Resistance Wins.

I like that, it finishes something. Well, until I get some Avatars…

I am not sure it is enough work for one day. I don’t remember what models still need work, that was 11 months ago…. ”

So, I spun it a 2nd time.

Project Sisters: Et ex Patriarchus

So I have some detailed painting then some assembling or base work tomorrow.

The Wheel Demands Progress…

Till next time…

Just do it…

Posted in Lost Hemisphere, Painting, project, Rant | Leave a comment

Project Sisters: Et ex Patriarchus

I have a lot of unpainted stuff, Skorne, Khador, Menoth, Cygnar, Trolls, Minions…..  Well, a lot. I tend to plan projects around theme lists.

I need a project, this one got all the models first.

I have been looking at a list like this since the first time I saw Satyxis Raiders…

No Quarter Prime #4 and more other Satyxis models added to this idea. This issues has a fanf’ntastic painting guide for all things Satyxis.

The Scourge of the Broken Coast theme list sealed the deal. Since then I have been slowly picking up models for this.

The list includes Skarre 3, but I will be doing all the Skarre models and other Warcasters.

I only list one Jack, but I will add more of those too.

All of my Cryx models are on Dragon Forge Bases. I did an inventory and I have enough Forgotten Empires & Forgotten Empires Waters Edge Bases to do the whole things.

  • Theme: Scourge of the Broken Coast
  • Skarre, Admiral of the Black Fleet – WJ: +27
  • –    Satyxis Blood Priestess – PC: 4
  • –    Barathrum – PC: 15 (Battlegroup Points Used: 15)
  • Axiara Wraithblade – PC: 6
  • Severa Blacktide – PC: 6
  • Satyxis Raider Captain – PC: 4
  • Satyxis Raider Captain – PC: 4
  • Misery Cage – PC: 2
  • Misery Cage – PC: 2
  • Misery Cage – PC: 2
  • Misery Cage – PC: 2
  • Black Ogrun Ironmongers – Leader & 2 Grunts: 6
  • Black Ogrun Ironmongers – Leader & 2 Grunts: 6
  • Satyxis Gunslingers – Leader & 2 Grunts: 7
  • Satyxis Gunslingers – Leader & 2 Grunts: 7
  • Satyxis Raiders – Leader & 9 Grunts: 16
  • –    Satyxis Raider Sea Witch – PC: 4
  • Satyxis Raiders – Leader & 9 Grunts: 16
  • –    Satyxis Raider Sea Witch – PC: 4
  • Satyxis Blood Witches – Leader & 9 Grunts: 8
  • –    Satyxis Blood Hag – PC: 4
  • Satyxis Blood Witches – Leader & 9 Grunts: 8
  • –    Satyxis Blood Hag – PC: 4

I have to check, I might still need another Blood Hag. Does anyone think I need 2 Ten Model units of Satyxis Blood Witches or are small units good enough?

Not time frame on this project, the general plan is to clean and paint all of the bases at once. This will assure they all are the same. Assembling and priming all the models before anything gets painted. Then the fun will begin. Over 40 infantry & solos…  This is crazier than when I did Daughters of the Flame….

The only non-Satyxis are the Black Ogrun Ironmongers, who doesn’t like mechaniks?

NQP #4 has 6 different Warship Crew color schemes. I have 6 units. So everything won’t be the same. They also give several skin tone for Satyxis, so that will add to the variety too.

Great Racks for everyone 😉

Till next time,

Just do it!

Posted in Cryx, Dragon Forge Base, project, Theme List, warmachine | 2 Comments

I said one thing and it changed the way I think.

CaptainCon made a mistake. We did award a best in show for the painting contest. We contacted the judges. They quickly agreed and we contacted the painter. I shipped out the award and set the tracking info.

During that chat I said “We appreciate your art”…..

It wasn’t something I normally say or hear.

Painting miniatures is a hobby. That is what I hear and the way I think about it.

Those have got me thinking, painting little plastic/metal/resin models is Art. Mod are art too.

I know  you don’t see them in museums or art galleries, but maybe they should be.

From 3 colors -> tabletop -> Local Game Store painting contest -> Golden Demo/Crystal Brush it is all art.

Not all artists are created equal, but they share pride in their work.

and painted minis play better….  😉

Till next time

Just do it..

Posted in CaptainCon, Painting, Painting Motivation, Rant | Leave a comment

A Clear Water Rant!!!

For all of my Gators (Amphibious models) have done deep bases with water effects..

Dragon Forge make the resin bases. I wash them to remove any mold release. Then prime them. Paint the inside are swampy color (Thornwood Green).

When the model is partially painted (usually the legs and feet) I glue it into the base.

Then I will put 3-4 layers of water effects into the base. It usually takes 8-12 hours for that to dry. Between layers will will add some very thing Glaze of Wyrm Green for contrast and depth. The surface ends up with ripples in it. It looks like the model is moving in the water…

It is a long process, but I really like the results.
I have done a whole Gator army this way. Never had a problem with the water effect.

I recently painted Barnabus 2. Gator Caster with his 3 little bone piles.

I used the same water effects I have used dozens of times.
After the third layer, it was obvious that something was wrong. It looks like I mixed Milk with the water effects..

I took the product and puts some in a clam-shell and let it dry over night.
Kind of what I expected.

My guess is that the product get cloudy with age..

Now I am wondering if I should look for a new water effect to use….

The only way I can think of to fix this problem is to DIG out the cloudy stuff….

So I pullout out a dental pick (only drew blood twice) and a hobby knife and started doing mass destruction.

Not easy…

Not Pretty…

Not fun…

Pulling the water effects off pulled all the paint too…

The product is Vallejo Still Water

I message Vallejo over a week ago. Crickets….

No reply…

No surprise…

So I have to repaint some bones. Then find a replacement water effect product…

Any suggestions?????

Till next time…

Just Do It….

Posted in Basing, Dragon Forge Base, Gators, Hordes, Minion, Rant | 1 Comment

Painting stuff, well kind of….

When you look at a model and plan the colors, how do you do it.

Some times I don’t have a plan, then I have to just pick something and try it..

If I have one color I sometimes use color wheel tools to get ideas. paintRack (yes that is the spelling) by courageousoctopus has the tools I want in my phone. Android only!

I can pick on color that I have, paintRack has my collection and gives me Complimentary, Triads and other colors that work with my choice.

When I have one color I also plan on how to shade it…

For years, I have use P3 for almost all of my painting. There has been a one page chart of Shading (dark), Base color, Highlight, 2nd Hightlight for every P3 color. Well Grimkin came out and after 10 years P3 got some new colors, ink and washes. Then Crucible Guard and Monpoc got us some new paints and ink. My poor old chart had some holes in it. Within the last few weeks PP gave us a NEW P3 Shading chart.

Here is an example of how I picked the colors. I am working on Gatorman Boil Master & Spirit Cauldron.

Look at the Cauldron.

It has some burning coals on the ground. Flames under the Cauldron, The Cauldorn has skulls and bone handles (they done have to be bone). Liquid in the Cauldron. A hand, a skull and some ribs in the liquid. then Flames above the Cauldron.

I have painted orange/yellow flames and they look nice, but for Gator flames I use green/yellow for mystical magical flames. Well, I debated about doing Orange on the bottom flames and green on the top, but I decided to do all green.

One part I have not decided. The faces in the flames. The studio made them Dark. Great contrast.  Flames, the hottest part is the lightest color, but the faces kind of disappear that way. Should I use a dark green to emphasize them or leave them a light yellow….  Help…

The coals will be a Black/Coal Black base. I want a green yellow to match the rest of the fire.  I will thin out some white and make a thin wash in the cracks. Then I can glaze some  green in the cracks. The white first makes that color pop. Then dry brush a little bit of yellow green mix over the tops of the coals show the magic heat.

The Cauldrons are how will make the two different. One will be a dark Iron. The other a really dark bronze/brass color. Just look at the bottom of the chart for Boiler Black and Deathless Metal. I washed the Shade and dry brushed in some highlights.

The skulls and bone handles are part of an internal debate, bone or metal..

The studio used a green for the Cauldron Liquid. I wanted more of a bucket of blood look. I based it in Sanguine base. I decided to highlight it with a brighter red than the chart’s recommendation. You don’t have to lock in on the chart, experiment, be creative. I tried a touch of Skorne Red, nope… Khador Red Highlight was what I wanted.

The Skull, Hand and Ribs. I based them with MWH (menoth white highlight). Then washed it with Sanguine Base to make the look like they are mixed into the bucket of blood.

The Cauldron isn’t done. Hell, I still have not decided on the skulls and handles, so no pictures yet.

When you get a model, look at it. Coat, Pants, Belt, Belt Buckle, Button, Cuffs, Gun (barrel, trigger guard & other metal, wood) and other things. What is the big color, how will you shade it.  What other colors work well with that color. What will give contrasts to the model.

That’s all for now….

Until next time,

Just do it…

Posted in Gators, Minion, Painting, Painting Motivation, Paintrack | Leave a comment

Project: I never did get a new HAT!!! #5 – BFC

World Series games that end after 3:30 AM takes the wind out the sails…. Between Thursday and Sunday afternoon, I cleaned up mold marks, pinned and glued a whole bunch of models. I won’t post that list again because it is in the last post.

Not much to show you about doing that on most models. Well, BFC (Dracodile) isn’t most models. It is eight pieces and the resin cleanup is a bit of a modelling challenge. The port that allow the resin to fill the model are very well done. The casting is way above average in quality. The PP resin is very easy to work. It isn’t brittle. I remember some stuff from other companies that would explode into tiny little pieces if dropped on hard floor. Not this stuff, it is top of the line material.

In the photos, an is a post that has to be cut out and shaped. A 4 pointed Star is a mold line that has to filed smooth.

The head is in two pieces. The port are located where the two head pieces connect together. A good pair of flush cutters do 90% of the work. An Xacto knife did the rest.

Any time your trimming a surface that mates up to another piece better to make several small cuts. You don’t want to trim off to much and have to do some putty work to fill in that gap.

Fear not, I didn’t damage anything. That gap doesn’t show when the head is glued together. Well, I see a line. Where is my Squadron Green putty..

The Tail has a Gate on the bottom of the connection to the body. It also Gate on the top of the tail, right at th e end. The one on the Tail is a HUGE pain-in-the-ass…

Trimming the body connection was pretty much routine. I had to trim a little of the bottom scale to get it to really fit together well.

The top one is a lot of work. Take a good look at the big diamond shaped end of the tail. There is a lot of detail at the back and all along it.. There is also a mold mark on the right side of the diamond.

The gate wasn’t hard to trim. Just making that area flat. The scale have small details that put small line that run from the trailing edge back towards the body. I took an Xacto knife and made some small lines in the tail. Those didn’t show up enough. I then took a triangle shaped file. I used the edge to make
the small cuts deeper and wider. Still not enough. Ok, get out the micro saw and make those lines deeper more pronounced.

The mold line need knife work to smooth it out. Of course that cut off those detail lines on the edge of the scale. So I have to use the Knife, file and micro saw to do those too..

I might be crazy, but come on. As beautiful as this model is it shouldn’t have a big flat spot on the top of it’s tail.

Ok, you’ve seen the before and after. Was it worth a little bit of time? Come on…..

The body was pretty straight forward. The head connection was one big cut from the cutters. The a little bit of file work. Easy Peasy…

One of the leg connections had a gate and the leg had one also. That is a little tricky. I had to cut two pieces and make them fit together. Cutter, Knife & file for both. Both the arms and legs have very small gaps, less than 1 mm. I will do just a little bit of putty to smooth those out. Damn, I think I need a new tube of Squadron Green, my old one (of 5 years old) is pretty dead.

On the body scales check them from several angles. there will be some very small mold marks on them or between them. It only takes a minute to clean that up.

You can also see that the arm connection on the body is as clean as a whistle. The left arm and body are clean too.

The Right and Left leg have the same gates. One on the heal of the his foot and one on the body connection. The small mold line is easy to clean up. Check the toe nails too. Small mold lines and such, nothing bad. A quick knife blade or file and they are gone.

The two arms didn’t give me any problems. Trimming one part to fit a nice smooth connection so easy.

Both arms had a small gate on the arm connection and another on on the wrist. That on was small and it was on a scale. So it was using a file to smooth out that scale.

A little thing called the World Series kept me from assembling it tonight (still looking for my Squadron Green too).

So you will have to wait to see that. I am still debating the colors to use. I keep looking at photos of real crocodiles…..

One thing is certain, the claws will be dark, the teeth will be very big and very white.
Image result for crocodile

Till next time

Just do it.


Posted in Assembling, Minion, project | 1 Comment

Project: I never did get a new HAT!!! #4 – Reset….

In 2017 I came close to finishing the Gator theme. Sacral Vaults and Troll solo was all that was missing.

Pendrake’s students and the Elf & Snake got added and all the sweet stuff hinted about at L&L.

Last Spring I tried to do the first Sacral Vault. I didn’t send out photos, I really wasn’t sure happy with them. I put them away and took a break.

I have been slowly picking up the newest gator releases. The only think left to pick up is a pack of Void Leach’s. Most of them are new, but the 2nd hand ones needed to be cleaned up. There are some glue globs covering some details.

Yesterday, I spent a couple of hours cleaning up mold marks and pinning some stuff.

Longchops had a terrible mold line under his tail. About 3/32 of an inch deep. He also has two arms and a weapon to attach. Flash backs to Nyss Hunters…

Barnabas II got some pins on his arm. Troll solo got pins. Soul Slave got his head torches pinned.

A question for you. Kwaak Slickspine & Grub. I have painted 3 different colors of Croaks. Blue, Bumblebee and  Green with orange feet. All based on poison dart frogs. Should he/them be painted both the same color (easy) or both different colors?

Croak Trappers are very clean, just small flash to clean up.

Have not assembled Husks, yet. Void Leeches glued together.

Boil Master & Cauldron, the Pot was easy. Very clean casting and 4 small metal handles to glue. Boil Master had his ax broken off, mold marks are not bad. Pinned both axes..

The Elf & Snake, I have had them for years, at least 7, now I have a reason to paint them. Got them back when I played with the idea of doing Retribution.

______________________________________________________________Barnabas, Lord of Blood & Bone Shakers x 3

Gatorman Soul Slave – PC: 5

Dracodile (BFG)

Sacral Vault x 2

Bone Shrine x 2

Dahlia Hallyr & Skarath (Elf & Snake)

Gatorman Husk x 3 (one already painted by G’Day)

Kwaak Slickspine & Gub, Croak Sorcerers


Raluk Moorclaw, the Ironmonger (Troll solo)

Swamp Gobber Chef

Boil Master & Spirit Cauldron x 2

Croak Trappers x 2

 Void Leech x 5

Lynus Wesselbaum & Edrea Lloryrr (Pendrake’s students)


The Bone Shrines are pretty intricate for a single model. They will be prototypes for the Sacral Vaults. Stone, ropes, candles, glowing letters, vines, skulls and probably more…

In my travels last summer, I picked this up. Malachite has always been a stone I liked. That is one color scheme. having an actual stone to look helps visualize the model. I have some ideas the second one, but let me keep that under my hat for now.

I will do a cleaning the mold marks and assembling post on the Dracodile.

All the amphibious models will be on swamp bases, you can see those in the croak raider pictures. The rest will be get my merc dirt base mix.

Time to stop typing and accomplish something.

’til next time….

Just do it….

Posted in Basing, Dragon Forge Base, Gator, Minion, pinning, project, Rant, Theme List | Leave a comment

Project : Lil Punkins….

Monsterpocalypse has started to roll out.

My plan is get all the bad guys, Planet Eaters, Cthul and Martians. I picked some up at GenCon. A Planet Eater starter and two of each blister. I probably only needed 1 Belcher blister, but I painted them up anyway….

I wanted a bright color for them, uniform color scheme and not the box colors. So, I took a while to find something I liked.

Then I saw someone post this, BINGO!! I like bright orange contrasted with Black.

Next was  figuring out what colors to use, Armor was easy, Black shaded withI used Paintrack to get a 5 color shading for the Planet Easter skin. Inferno Orange was the base color (it’s a new one). I decided to use Khador Red base and Sanguine Highlight to darken the skin. Ember Orange and Heartfire are the highlights. White…  Duh….


About the same time I was introduced to Paint Rack (Android App) and I am using it a lot. I am notoriously cheap, thanks Dad. It is very rare for me to buy and App. This one I did. This one is a one guy show, he wants feedback and adding more features.

First, I can keep an inventory or the paints I have, either pick them from the manufacture list or scan the bar code. If I need something, I can easily add it to my wish list.

I used Paintrack to get a 5 color shading for the Planet Easter skin. Inferno Orange was the base color (it’s a new one). I decided to use Khador Red base and Sanguine Highlight to darken the skin. Ember Orange and Heartfire are the highlights.

When I pick a color to use the “Color Tools” to see  the Complimentary, Analogous, Triad colors that go with what I am using. It uses the colors you have to find what you should use. I find myself opening Paintrack when I have an idea of a color scheme to look at what shading and highlights might work.

The “Set” menu allows you to build a list of what paints you use on a model. You can add Subsets that break that model into different parts. My Planet Eaters are easy Armor, Skin and Eyes.

Once you have your Subsets labeled, add the paints.

You can also click on the Subset (will post picture of that one later.

The units are all pretty clean as far as mold marks go. Some of them have gates in there feet (claws). You have to be careful with the clipper or the the claw will break. I used a hobby knife and files, never broke one.

The Monster, OMG, huge gates. There has to be places where the resin comes in to fill the mold. I’m not sure there was a better way to make it easier, but those locations give you a modelling challenge…

Here comes a lot of photos…

The tail has a gate on top. Be careful with the top edge. Knife and file work was all it needed. I really like the way the bottom has scales. Black on the armor and body orange and shading on the scales…

The claws, two gates on each claw, right on top near the spine of the armor. I used cutter to off the majority removed. The resin is really easy to work with. The thumb claws, two on each hand, will be black armor. The 3 little vents and the inside of the hands will be orange body shading to give the hands some contrast.

The head has Two gates on the top and one on the bottom. There is one way back (under my finger) and another in the middle. Both easy to knife/file. Black armor and all the indentations will be orange with glow highlights.
The on on the bottom is the easy one, just use cutter, it will be hidden when you glue the head onto the body.

Now for the rest of the body. I saved the biggest challenge for last. The each of the shoulders has a gate on top. WOW, that is a challenge to trim and shape it match the curve on the rest of the shoulder. You can also see mold misalignment on one shoulder, again care is needed to smooth that out.  There is another one on the neck, cutters will do that one.

I did one Belcher first to test the colors….

White primer, then a base coat of Inferno Orange. I used some flow improver & Mat Medium to make a heavy glaze of Khador Red Base and use that on all the deep areas. Make sure it really dry. Made another glaze of Sanguine Highlights, this one was thinner, so it collected in the deep areas and didn’t change most of the red that already dried. Looking at it now, is it a Red model with orange highlight? Well, we are not done yet…

Time to add some black. The claws and head armor was obviously black. There is a small area under head armor that could be either armor or skin. I decided armor. Once the black was in place, a little bit of white was added to the mix and some highlight on the armor.

Now highlights. Ember Orange, then Heartfire. I tried some drybrush and did some brush work to get the lighter areas where I wanted them. a touch of Cygnus Yellow for the eyes.
Iam really happy with the way this little guy came out. Well, that’s the prototype.

Since that one, I have banged out another 20+ units and the monster.

Someone asked how I was going to differentiate the Elite models. I thought about it, decided to add spots. I had always planned for the monster have belly spots, why not the units..

The spots are three colors, Beaten Purple was first. Then a spot of Morrow White. Finished with a heavy glaze of Sanguine Highlight. Happy dance on the way they came out. The stars on the Elite bases are also Inferno Orange.

Pretty well locked down the colors.

There only so much I can say about painting the cute little things that look like Halloween candy. Well, one person said thought they look  like “Liquid hot MAGma”..

I am going to stop talking, I will add a bunch of photos to the end of the post….

What’s next, I don’t know, I will have to see which way the wind blows…

Till next time….

Just do it……

Posted in Monsterpocalypse, Painting, Paintrack, project, Rant | 2 Comments