A Clear Water Rant!!!

For all of my Gators (Amphibious models) have done deep bases with water effects..

Dragon Forge make the resin bases. I wash them to remove any mold release. Then prime them. Paint the inside are swampy color (Thornwood Green).

When the model is partially painted (usually the legs and feet) I glue it into the base.

Then I will put 3-4 layers of water effects into the base. It usually takes 8-12 hours for that to dry. Between layers will will add some very thing Glaze of Wyrm Green for contrast and depth. The surface ends up with ripples in it. It looks like the model is moving in the water…

It is a long process, but I really like the results.
I have done a whole Gator army this way. Never had a problem with the water effect.

I recently painted Barnabus 2. Gator Caster with his 3 little bone piles.

I used the same water effects I have used dozens of times.
After the third layer, it was obvious that something was wrong. It looks like I mixed Milk with the water effects..

I took the product and puts some in a clam-shell and let it dry over night.
Kind of what I expected.

My guess is that the product get cloudy with age..

Now I am wondering if I should look for a new water effect to use….

The only way I can think of to fix this problem is to DIG out the cloudy stuff….

So I pullout out a dental pick (only drew blood twice) and a hobby knife and started doing mass destruction.

Not easy…

Not Pretty…

Not fun…

Pulling the water effects off pulled all the paint too…

The product is Vallejo Still Water

I message Vallejo over a week ago. Crickets….

No reply…

No surprise…

So I have to repaint some bones. Then find a replacement water effect product…

Any suggestions?????

Till next time…

Just Do It….

Posted in Basing, Dragon Forge Base, Gators, Hordes, Minion, Rant | 1 Comment

Painting stuff, well kind of….

When you look at a model and plan the colors, how do you do it.

Some times I don’t have a plan, then I have to just pick something and try it..

If I have one color I sometimes use color wheel tools to get ideas. paintRack (yes that is the spelling) by courageousoctopus has the tools I want in my phone. Android only!

I can pick on color that I have, paintRack has my collection and gives me Complimentary, Triads and other colors that work with my choice.

When I have one color I also plan on how to shade it…

For years, I have use P3 for almost all of my painting. There has been a one page chart of Shading (dark), Base color, Highlight, 2nd Hightlight for every P3 color. Well Grimkin came out and after 10 years P3 got some new colors, ink and washes. Then Crucible Guard and Monpoc got us some new paints and ink. My poor old chart had some holes in it. Within the last few weeks PP gave us a NEW P3 Shading chart.

Here is an example of how I picked the colors. I am working on Gatorman Boil Master & Spirit Cauldron.

Look at the Cauldron.

It has some burning coals on the ground. Flames under the Cauldron, The Cauldorn has skulls and bone handles (they done have to be bone). Liquid in the Cauldron. A hand, a skull and some ribs in the liquid. then Flames above the Cauldron.

I have painted orange/yellow flames and they look nice, but for Gator flames I use green/yellow for mystical magical flames. Well, I debated about doing Orange on the bottom flames and green on the top, but I decided to do all green.

One part I have not decided. The faces in the flames. The studio made them Dark. Great contrast.  Flames, the hottest part is the lightest color, but the faces kind of disappear that way. Should I use a dark green to emphasize them or leave them a light yellow….  Help…

The coals will be a Black/Coal Black base. I want a green yellow to match the rest of the fire.  I will thin out some white and make a thin wash in the cracks. Then I can glaze some  green in the cracks. The white first makes that color pop. Then dry brush a little bit of yellow green mix over the tops of the coals show the magic heat.

The Cauldrons are how will make the two different. One will be a dark Iron. The other a really dark bronze/brass color. Just look at the bottom of the chart for Boiler Black and Deathless Metal. I washed the Shade and dry brushed in some highlights.

The skulls and bone handles are part of an internal debate, bone or metal..

The studio used a green for the Cauldron Liquid. I wanted more of a bucket of blood look. I based it in Sanguine base. I decided to highlight it with a brighter red than the chart’s recommendation. You don’t have to lock in on the chart, experiment, be creative. I tried a touch of Skorne Red, nope… Khador Red Highlight was what I wanted.

The Skull, Hand and Ribs. I based them with MWH (menoth white highlight). Then washed it with Sanguine Base to make the look like they are mixed into the bucket of blood.

The Cauldron isn’t done. Hell, I still have not decided on the skulls and handles, so no pictures yet.

When you get a model, look at it. Coat, Pants, Belt, Belt Buckle, Button, Cuffs, Gun (barrel, trigger guard & other metal, wood) and other things. What is the big color, how will you shade it.  What other colors work well with that color. What will give contrasts to the model.

That’s all for now….

Until next time,

Just do it…

Posted in Gators, Minion, Painting, Painting Motivation, Paintrack | Leave a comment

Project: I never did get a new HAT!!! #5 – BFC

World Series games that end after 3:30 AM takes the wind out the sails…. Between Thursday and Sunday afternoon, I cleaned up mold marks, pinned and glued a whole bunch of models. I won’t post that list again because it is in the last post.

Not much to show you about doing that on most models. Well, BFC (Dracodile) isn’t most models. It is eight pieces and the resin cleanup is a bit of a modelling challenge. The port that allow the resin to fill the model are very well done. The casting is way above average in quality. The PP resin is very easy to work. It isn’t brittle. I remember some stuff from other companies that would explode into tiny little pieces if dropped on hard floor. Not this stuff, it is top of the line material.

In the photos, an is a post that has to be cut out and shaped. A 4 pointed Star is a mold line that has to filed smooth.

The head is in two pieces. The port are located where the two head pieces connect together. A good pair of flush cutters do 90% of the work. An Xacto knife did the rest.

Any time your trimming a surface that mates up to another piece better to make several small cuts. You don’t want to trim off to much and have to do some putty work to fill in that gap.

Fear not, I didn’t damage anything. That gap doesn’t show when the head is glued together. Well, I see a line. Where is my Squadron Green putty..

The Tail has a Gate on the bottom of the connection to the body. It also Gate on the top of the tail, right at th e end. The one on the Tail is a HUGE pain-in-the-ass…

Trimming the body connection was pretty much routine. I had to trim a little of the bottom scale to get it to really fit together well.

The top one is a lot of work. Take a good look at the big diamond shaped end of the tail. There is a lot of detail at the back and all along it.. There is also a mold mark on the right side of the diamond.

The gate wasn’t hard to trim. Just making that area flat. The scale have small details that put small line that run from the trailing edge back towards the body. I took an Xacto knife and made some small lines in the tail. Those didn’t show up enough. I then took a triangle shaped file. I used the edge to make
the small cuts deeper and wider. Still not enough. Ok, get out the micro saw and make those lines deeper more pronounced.

The mold line need knife work to smooth it out. Of course that cut off those detail lines on the edge of the scale. So I have to use the Knife, file and micro saw to do those too..

I might be crazy, but come on. As beautiful as this model is it shouldn’t have a big flat spot on the top of it’s tail.

Ok, you’ve seen the before and after. Was it worth a little bit of time? Come on…..

The body was pretty straight forward. The head connection was one big cut from the cutters. The a little bit of file work. Easy Peasy…

One of the leg connections had a gate and the leg had one also. That is a little tricky. I had to cut two pieces and make them fit together. Cutter, Knife & file for both. Both the arms and legs have very small gaps, less than 1 mm. I will do just a little bit of putty to smooth those out. Damn, I think I need a new tube of Squadron Green, my old one (of 5 years old) is pretty dead.

On the body scales check them from several angles. there will be some very small mold marks on them or between them. It only takes a minute to clean that up.

You can also see that the arm connection on the body is as clean as a whistle. The left arm and body are clean too.

The Right and Left leg have the same gates. One on the heal of the his foot and one on the body connection. The small mold line is easy to clean up. Check the toe nails too. Small mold lines and such, nothing bad. A quick knife blade or file and they are gone.

The two arms didn’t give me any problems. Trimming one part to fit a nice smooth connection so easy.

Both arms had a small gate on the arm connection and another on on the wrist. That on was small and it was on a scale. So it was using a file to smooth out that scale.

A little thing called the World Series kept me from assembling it tonight (still looking for my Squadron Green too).

So you will have to wait to see that. I am still debating the colors to use. I keep looking at photos of real crocodiles…..

One thing is certain, the claws will be dark, the teeth will be very big and very white.
Image result for crocodile

Till next time

Just do it.


Posted in Assembling, Minion, project | 1 Comment

Project: I never did get a new HAT!!! #4 – Reset….

In 2017 I came close to finishing the Gator theme. Sacral Vaults and Troll solo was all that was missing.

Pendrake’s students and the Elf & Snake got added and all the sweet stuff hinted about at L&L.

Last Spring I tried to do the first Sacral Vault. I didn’t send out photos, I really wasn’t sure happy with them. I put them away and took a break.

I have been slowly picking up the newest gator releases. The only think left to pick up is a pack of Void Leach’s. Most of them are new, but the 2nd hand ones needed to be cleaned up. There are some glue globs covering some details.

Yesterday, I spent a couple of hours cleaning up mold marks and pinning some stuff.

Longchops had a terrible mold line under his tail. About 3/32 of an inch deep. He also has two arms and a weapon to attach. Flash backs to Nyss Hunters…

Barnabas II got some pins on his arm. Troll solo got pins. Soul Slave got his head torches pinned.

A question for you. Kwaak Slickspine & Grub. I have painted 3 different colors of Croaks. Blue, Bumblebee and  Green with orange feet. All based on poison dart frogs. Should he/them be painted both the same color (easy) or both different colors?

Croak Trappers are very clean, just small flash to clean up.

Have not assembled Husks, yet. Void Leeches glued together.

Boil Master & Cauldron, the Pot was easy. Very clean casting and 4 small metal handles to glue. Boil Master had his ax broken off, mold marks are not bad. Pinned both axes..

The Elf & Snake, I have had them for years, at least 7, now I have a reason to paint them. Got them back when I played with the idea of doing Retribution.

______________________________________________________________Barnabas, Lord of Blood & Bone Shakers x 3

Gatorman Soul Slave – PC: 5

Dracodile (BFG)

Sacral Vault x 2

Bone Shrine x 2

Dahlia Hallyr & Skarath (Elf & Snake)

Gatorman Husk x 3 (one already painted by G’Day)

Kwaak Slickspine & Gub, Croak Sorcerers


Raluk Moorclaw, the Ironmonger (Troll solo)

Swamp Gobber Chef

Boil Master & Spirit Cauldron x 2

Croak Trappers x 2

 Void Leech x 5

Lynus Wesselbaum & Edrea Lloryrr (Pendrake’s students)


The Bone Shrines are pretty intricate for a single model. They will be prototypes for the Sacral Vaults. Stone, ropes, candles, glowing letters, vines, skulls and probably more…

In my travels last summer, I picked this up. Malachite has always been a stone I liked. That is one color scheme. having an actual stone to look helps visualize the model. I have some ideas the second one, but let me keep that under my hat for now.

I will do a cleaning the mold marks and assembling post on the Dracodile.

All the amphibious models will be on swamp bases, you can see those in the croak raider pictures. The rest will be get my merc dirt base mix.

Time to stop typing and accomplish something.

’til next time….

Just do it….

Posted in Basing, Dragon Forge Base, Gator, Minion, pinning, project, Rant, Theme List | Leave a comment

Project : Lil Punkins….

Monsterpocalypse has started to roll out.

My plan is get all the bad guys, Planet Eaters, Cthul and Martians. I picked some up at GenCon. A Planet Eater starter and two of each blister. I probably only needed 1 Belcher blister, but I painted them up anyway….

I wanted a bright color for them, uniform color scheme and not the box colors. So, I took a while to find something I liked.

Then I saw someone post this, BINGO!! I like bright orange contrasted with Black.

Next was  figuring out what colors to use, Armor was easy, Black shaded withI used Paintrack to get a 5 color shading for the Planet Easter skin. Inferno Orange was the base color (it’s a new one). I decided to use Khador Red base and Sanguine Highlight to darken the skin. Ember Orange and Heartfire are the highlights. White…  Duh….


About the same time I was introduced to Paint Rack (Android App) and I am using it a lot. I am notoriously cheap, thanks Dad. It is very rare for me to buy and App. This one I did. This one is a one guy show, he wants feedback and adding more features.

First, I can keep an inventory or the paints I have, either pick them from the manufacture list or scan the bar code. If I need something, I can easily add it to my wish list.

I used Paintrack to get a 5 color shading for the Planet Easter skin. Inferno Orange was the base color (it’s a new one). I decided to use Khador Red base and Sanguine Highlight to darken the skin. Ember Orange and Heartfire are the highlights.

When I pick a color to use the “Color Tools” to see  the Complimentary, Analogous, Triad colors that go with what I am using. It uses the colors you have to find what you should use. I find myself opening Paintrack when I have an idea of a color scheme to look at what shading and highlights might work.

The “Set” menu allows you to build a list of what paints you use on a model. You can add Subsets that break that model into different parts. My Planet Eaters are easy Armor, Skin and Eyes.

Once you have your Subsets labeled, add the paints.

You can also click on the Subset (will post picture of that one later.

The units are all pretty clean as far as mold marks go. Some of them have gates in there feet (claws). You have to be careful with the clipper or the the claw will break. I used a hobby knife and files, never broke one.

The Monster, OMG, huge gates. There has to be places where the resin comes in to fill the mold. I’m not sure there was a better way to make it easier, but those locations give you a modelling challenge…

Here comes a lot of photos…

The tail has a gate on top. Be careful with the top edge. Knife and file work was all it needed. I really like the way the bottom has scales. Black on the armor and body orange and shading on the scales…

The claws, two gates on each claw, right on top near the spine of the armor. I used cutter to off the majority removed. The resin is really easy to work with. The thumb claws, two on each hand, will be black armor. The 3 little vents and the inside of the hands will be orange body shading to give the hands some contrast.

The head has Two gates on the top and one on the bottom. There is one way back (under my finger) and another in the middle. Both easy to knife/file. Black armor and all the indentations will be orange with glow highlights.
The on on the bottom is the easy one, just use cutter, it will be hidden when you glue the head onto the body.

Now for the rest of the body. I saved the biggest challenge for last. The each of the shoulders has a gate on top. WOW, that is a challenge to trim and shape it match the curve on the rest of the shoulder. You can also see mold misalignment on one shoulder, again care is needed to smooth that out.  There is another one on the neck, cutters will do that one.

I did one Belcher first to test the colors….

White primer, then a base coat of Inferno Orange. I used some flow improver & Mat Medium to make a heavy glaze of Khador Red Base and use that on all the deep areas. Make sure it really dry. Made another glaze of Sanguine Highlights, this one was thinner, so it collected in the deep areas and didn’t change most of the red that already dried. Looking at it now, is it a Red model with orange highlight? Well, we are not done yet…

Time to add some black. The claws and head armor was obviously black. There is a small area under head armor that could be either armor or skin. I decided armor. Once the black was in place, a little bit of white was added to the mix and some highlight on the armor.

Now highlights. Ember Orange, then Heartfire. I tried some drybrush and did some brush work to get the lighter areas where I wanted them. a touch of Cygnus Yellow for the eyes.
Iam really happy with the way this little guy came out. Well, that’s the prototype.

Since that one, I have banged out another 20+ units and the monster.

Someone asked how I was going to differentiate the Elite models. I thought about it, decided to add spots. I had always planned for the monster have belly spots, why not the units..

The spots are three colors, Beaten Purple was first. Then a spot of Morrow White. Finished with a heavy glaze of Sanguine Highlight. Happy dance on the way they came out. The stars on the Elite bases are also Inferno Orange.

Pretty well locked down the colors.

There only so much I can say about painting the cute little things that look like Halloween candy. Well, one person said thought they look  like “Liquid hot MAGma”..

I am going to stop talking, I will add a bunch of photos to the end of the post….

What’s next, I don’t know, I will have to see which way the wind blows…

Till next time….

Just do it……

Posted in Monsterpocalypse, Painting, Paintrack, project, Rant | 2 Comments

Project Ambidextrous Toucan: Update 15 – Do over…

Have you ever painted something and it just didn’t look right?

Why did I make his coat green.

It just seems to be to much green, especially looking at it for the back.

You guessed it, Rucksack tan to the rescue.

I’m off to GenCon, so quiet for a while.

Till next time….

Just do it!!!!

Posted in Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Project Ambidextrous Toucan: Update 14 – Mk3 Additions

Llaelese Resistance is what used to be Viva le Resistance…

The only models I painted in Mk2 that isn’t in Mk3 is the Precursor Knight…..

The models for the Mk3 upgrade are not my most ambitious project. I am sitting here smiling because this one will be, well it already is fun…

Caine’s Hellslingers – Have

–    Ace (1 model) Need

Drake MacBain – Painted

–    Reinholdt – Painted

–    Mangler – Painted

Lieutenant Crosse- Have

–    Sylys Wyshnalyr – Have

–    Toro – Need

Colbie Sterling – Have

Eilish Garrity – Painted

Gastone Crosse – Have

Major Harrison Gibbs & a Tuxedo Cat – Have

Sergeant Nicolas Verendrye – Painted

Arcane Tempest Gun Mages -AWOL

–    Arcane Tempest Gun Mage Officer – AWOL 

Thorn Gun Mages – Being Painted

Thorn Gun Mages – Being Painted


While I was roadblocked by a Monstrosity, I started pulling out these models, assembling and priming them. If anyone is checking the models, Eilish Garrity isn’t in the primed model shots, the sneaky bastard was still hiding in the plastic bag from NWPrime.


I decided to brush on some white primer to bring out the details.

When I would paint, I would work on the Monstrosity for a while. Then I painted the Mangler.

Base color is greatcoat gray. One shoulder is Beaten Purple. His right leg is Idrian Brown, the rest is various Metals. With Heartfire and some Sulfurous Yellow for the inside of the stacks, eyes and such. I will always make Mercenary jacks a variety of colors, Mercs make jacks work and save money on paint jobs. Not certain about character jacks…..

Next time, I worked on the Monstrosity and finished him. Then I worked on MacB and Steelhead Nic…

Nothing shocking here, metal, metal and more metal, some brown for the leather, different brown for his sword hilt. Wash this metal, wash that metal, add some highlights. Not happy with his eyes, but from across the table will anyone notice?

Steelhead Nic was so easy is was almost something to laugh about. Most of the MacB colors and some green for his “skirt” ??

One of the hardest things to  do on any hobby/painting project is to keep it going.  If you start to avoid working on that one model or a HUGE unit.. Just do something else for fun. Work on the Roadblock and use the Pallet Cleanser as a fun reward for progress….

One of the things that happened, The Mangler fell of the desk. It broke the body/waist connection. I had to drill 4 holes to remove the pin left in the body. Add a new longer pin to the hips. Then use some Squadron Green to fill the hole. I will add some photos of this at the bottom.

While I was working on that, Reinholdt and Eilish Garrity got some attention. Eilish is getting another sculpt so people who missed the NQPrime can get one.

Rienholdt was so easy, basecoat, Brown ink was, a few highlight. Eilish has many little armor plates. I wanted  blue/gold armor with contrasting blue cloth. Of course he isn’t as hard to do as Skorne with Red/Gold.

I didn’t one color on the Thorn GM units too…

Till next time…

Just do it…















































Posted in Mercenary, Painting, Painting Motivation, project, Rant, warmachine | Leave a comment

Project: Clean Sweep: Update 1 – Roadblocks and Pallet Cleansers

The big news, all of the undercity models are painted. The part that sucks is the bases. They are not all done yet. Damn, 48 models and I wanted to make them look like the game board. Just shoot me in the head.

Undercity & 
Black River Irregulars – 48 models– 44

  • Milo Boggs
  • Pog & Doorstop
  • Canice Gormleigh
  • Gardek Stonebrow
  • Barl Blackheel
  • Colbie Sterlin
  • Eilish Garrity
  • Bastian Kinnet
  • 8 x Crossbow Thugs
  • 10 x Sword Thugs
  • 2 x Goblin Thugs
  • 2 x Rhulic Mercs
  • 2 x Trollkin Scouts
  • 2 x Ogrun Brutes
  • 2 x Heavy Jacks (Freebooters)
  • 8 x Drudge
  • Proto Monstrosity
  • Ringleader
  • Cephalyx (Overlord)

One of the things that can happen on a project is a roadblock. Something you don’t like, don’t want to paint or something you think you can’t do a good job on.

The last one is most frequent for me. Rather than fail, I will procrastinate to the point of doing no painting.

The Monstrosity is the example in this project. I had fun with the 8 character. The units I kept pretty basic, blasting thru a dozen models or less is pretty easy. I tried to make the models look like the cards, so people who don’t know the Iron Kingdom can easily recognize things.

The monstrosity is a flesh construct (Golum) with metal hands, leg supports and other connections to feed it and other things. Bruises, discolored skin, different metals, a ton of detail all made me wonder if I could do it justice. To be honest, I have worked on that one figure for over a month and today I finished him/it.

Mean while, I started doing Pallet Cleansers. Do something else that is fun for me to paint. I did the Ashlynn Mk2 theme a few years ago.


No themes for one Warcaster in Mk3. But there is Llaelese Resistance theme. Everything in my Mk2 project work in Mk3 except Precursor Knights. Shrug….

I pulled out my models that fit in the theme and started doing the two projects in Parallel. If I did some work on the Monstrosity, I could paint some Mercenaries. You get the idea.

So look for new post on Project Ambidexterous Toucan very soon.

Canice Gormleigh (Gun Mage Duelist), has a great coat over one shoulder, the arm, buckles and such have very distinct casting. Her hair is OK, the face lacks definition. Her bustier/blouse is easy to figure out. The dark skirt and coat got as much shading as I could. I gave her coat a purple liner like her game art. She doesn’t want to get into melee, but most things get shot of the table pretty quickly.

Milo Boggs (Cutthroat Alchemist) is based on Gorman. Pretty easy to paint. Grey cloak, a touch of metal.. Better at throwing knives and grenades, no melee for him either. 

Pog & Doorstop (Gobber Bodger and Steam Jack) The Gobber is Based in Cryx Bane base with other greens for the skin. Leather and other browns, metal jack with some Traitor Green. Pog is squishy, no surprise. Doorstop takes a ton of damage (DEF 10) so Pog has to repair him constantly. 

Gardek Stonebrow (Troll Warrior) is no surprise in the colors. Big Axe, Big Shield, Big Meat Wall with Regeneration.

Colbie Sterlin (Military Leader) has basic black cloths, some color for contrast. The face on the plastic is very flat and hard to highlight. Slug Gun & Axe. She does a lot for Heroes in her square.

Eilish Garrity (Arcanist Investigator), I’m not really happy with the way his armor looks, I wanted him to be a little darker. Face and hair are ok. Backpack and details look good. Sword can be swung around a corner. Upkeep spells help on player, ranges attack spell is his bread and butter. He can use the sword which can give him more Feat Cards.

 Bastian Kinnet (Morrowan Battle Chaplin) Robes make it easy to shade him. The Book on his belt and mace look good.  Feat heals two wounds. Prayers and a huge party help.

Barl Blackheel (Rhulic Pistoleer) some Sanguine cloths, a neatly trimmed beard, double barreled pistols. Dirty Fighting (choose one per turn) helps him and the party.


Sword Thugs look like Croe’s Cutthroats. They appear in all of the early scenarios. Die by the dozens. If they get to charge and roll well, player heroes DIE. DEF 12/ARM 12. Brown cloths, green cloak, some flesh, a little metal….  easy…

Crossbow Thugs are the other half of Croe’s Cutthroats. Brown without a green cloak. Like their cousins, they show up in a lot of scenarios, die in bunches, DEF 12/ARM 12 but the range attacks weaken player heroes. Losing 2-3 hitpoints, make you a charge victim.

Drudges show up the later scenarios. Tougher than Thugs, DEF 11/ARM 15. Most often they will be knocked down and you will need a second hit to kill them. Metal, muscles and a diving helmet.

Gobber Cutthroats – cut little guys, two knives, DEF 14/ARM 11 makes them hard to hit. They show up a lot.

Rhulic Merc Tough guys, 2 HP,DEF 12/ARM 14 with an Axe and Pistol. He prefers to charge, but will shoot if he can’t charge. That Axe is nasty. Metal breast plate, grey pants, nice looking guy…

Trollkin Scout – Axe and Throwing Axe, prefers to charge. Def 13/Arm 13. 2 hitpoints with a tough roll of 5 or 6 reduces the damage he takes by one.

Ogrun Brute is better know and a carpenter, he hits heroes like they are nails. DEF 11/ARM and 3 Hit points. The two hammer attacks are very dangerous.

Heavy Jacks DEF 10/ARM 14 with EIGHT hit points and when he hits, heroes are knocked down. It take a lot to put one down. VERY dangerous.

Ringleader is the first villain you run into. DEF 14/ARM 10 with six hitpoints. He is hard to hit, but if you hit he does down quickly. Not a melee guy, only a Hand Cannon. Nothing special, dark coat, metal shoulders.

Cephalyx makes Drudges and Monsterosity within 2 squares hit better, ughh. DEF 14/ARM 13 with 2 HP. Sacrificial Pawn make him a #%@& to kill. His Mind Blast is quite accurate and will hurt heroes with an average die roll. Dark Metallic and nasty….

Monsterous Ambrose as nasty as he looks. DEF 10/ARM 14 with four Hit Points. His twin fist can end you…… I like this guy, cloth wrapped feet with metal leg braces. A modesty cloth around his waist. Tubes and hoses here and there. His back is opened, bones, muscles and skin with Tubes on either side. HUGE arms and metal fists. His head is covered, hi must  be really ugly…

Except for Monstrosity, this was pretty quick and a ton of fun. Playing a game with Red/Blue/Purple/Tan pieces just doesn’t look right. The board and such looks so good, painting the models just pushes the whole thing over the top.

To be honest, I would do it again…..

I am already looking at models for Widower’s Wood…..

Till next time,

Just do it…












Posted in Boardgame, Painting, Painting Motivation, project, Rant, Theme List, Uncategorized, warmachine | Leave a comment

Project: Clean Sweep

The CaptainCon crew has been dabbling with Undercity (UC) for a while. Quite a bit of fun. Cory showed us the Super Deluxe Huge Widower’s Wood  (WW) Trunk with a ton of Gators, Trogs and other swampy things….

Immediately, I knew I should have jumped on that kickstarter….

Being retired and on a fixed income means I have to very careful with the amount of hobby spending. After the summer conventions I decided I could budget one large purchase and I knew the kickstarter trunk would cost more than the original price. Someone was asking twice what he paid for it, I made an offer for a modest profit and he jumped on my offer. With money still in the budget I started checking the large online stores for sales. It took about three weeks to find Undercity & The Black River Irregulars (expansion) within my budget.

Love the game. It feels like miniatures and has some RPG interaction between player. The one thing that bothers me is the Red/Blue Grunts, Yellow Characters and Purple Villain plastic models.

Undercity – 44

  • Milo Boggs
  • Pog & Doorstop
  • Canice Gormleigh
  • Gardek Stonebrow
  • 8 x Crossbow Thugs
  • 10 x Sword Thugs
  • 2 x Goblin Thugs
  • 2 x Rhulic Mercs
  • 2 x Trollkin Scouts
  • 2 x Ogrun Brutes
  • 2 x Heavy Jacks (Freebooters)
  • 8 x Drudge
  • Proto Monstrosity
  • Ringleader
  • Cephalyx (Overlord)
  • Black River Irregulars – 4 models
  • Barl Blackheel
  • Colbie Sterlin
  • Eilish Garrity
  • Bastian Kinnet
  • Widower’s Woods – 43 models
  • Agata
  • Skarg
  • Vaskis
  • Olo
  • 2 x Bog Trog Mist Speakers
  • 10 x Spear Bog Trogs
  • 2 x Swamp Gobbers
  • 8 x Swamp Shamblers
  • 6 x Club Gatormen
  • 6 x Viper Tatzylwurms
  • 2 x Gatorman Bokors
  • Deathless
  • Tatzylwurm
  • Rashedonak, The Witch Doctor
  • Dead Men Walking – 21 models
  • 10 x Risen
  • 6 x Thrall Warriors
  • 2 x Pistol Wraiths
  • 2 x Boneswarms
  • Necromancer
  • Kickstarter Rewards – 29 models
  • Crede & Jagger
  • Lanyssa Ryssyl
  • Gatorman Chieftan
  • Ironback Spitter
  • Bog Trog Chieftan
  • 2 x Feralgeist
  • Swamp Gobber Captain
  • Tatzylwurm Matriarch
  • Blackhide Warstler
  • 6 x Tomahawk Gatormen
  • Gatorman Shaman
  • 10 x Blowgun Bogtrogs
  • Swamp Horror
  • Kickstarter Stretch Goals – 17 models
  • Viktor Pendrake
  • 4 x Swamp Shamblers
  • 4 x Swamp Gobbers
  • 4 x Tatzylwurms
  • 4 x Club Gatormen

158 models…….  Ughhh…

How do you eat and elephant?
One bite at a time.

The trunk is heavy, but it has laser cut trays (you have to glue them together) that holds WW & UC.

I have painted three of the models for a friends so he had the four original characters painted (he did one himself). After seeing those in a game I knew I wanted mine to be fully painted.

First I scrubbed them all with some dish-washing liquid. The a pot of almost boiling water and a bole of ice water to straighten spears and such. It does work.

I black primes ALL of the models. The I dry-brushed white primer on ALL the models. The general plan is to make the models look like the art in the game.

The black & white priming is a new thing for me. I really like it because it makes the details much easier to see.

The priming was done last  November. I did hand brushed primer. It was quite a effort to do them all. Weather force that as the only option.

I worked on four characters first, the ones we have been using.

The bases look like crap because I will do all of the UC bases  at one time.

The general plan is to paint the UC Grunts & Villains first. Then do all of the Characters. Finally jump off the cliff with all the WW Grunts & Villains.

This project was hidden away during the winter. A couple of commissions and conventions took my time.

A couple of weeks ago I pulled out the Sword & Crossbow Thugs. Take the biggest part of that set first.

You probably noticed the fresh cut wood look is gone from my trays. It was easy with a can of waterbased wood stain. Two coats and a little bit of sanding seems to have done the job.

Tracking down and buying plastic sleeves for the cards that get a lot of use in game play. Plastic sandwich bags for some of the tokens and dice helps too.

Well, there is a Monstrosity on my painting table and something is growling. It’s not the dog, is it my stomach?

Till next time,

Just do it.

Posted in Boardgame, CaptainCon, commission, Painting, project, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Project: I never did get new HAT!!! #3 – This isn’t easy

This is not an easy one. This will probably read like a project plan.

Shrug, I guess it is….

Here are my plans.

I hope to put this on a mud & water (swampy) base. I have a “deep blank” base from Dragon Forge.  The idea is do have ruts the Vault wheels made. Mud on the wheels. Paint the mud, then add water effects to fill in the ruts. The pushing gators will have their feet in the mud and water covering their feet too.

The Vault & Wheels are stone. I am not doing a mono color store. This means I have to detail the wheels at least part of the Vault before gluing on the wheels. I think I need to paint the gator head, snakes & candles totem on the front of the vault first too.   Making ruts in the material I am using for the mud won’t be possible, until the wheels are glued on.

The Wheel skulls and snakes might get a little color too.

The vines are starting out as a light grey. The will have some shading texture added. Leaves on the vines will be a bright green.

There are two sections on the Vault that have textured area. The base has the wheels. The middle and the platform.  There are Runes on every part of the Vault. The will be a yellow or green glow. I will test the color after the stone gets more work.

The Base has vertical panels with a snake design. The panels will be stone and the design maybe getting some highlight color. Between these are skulls. That will have bone with a light green/yellow magic glow in between them. Above the panels are gaps that will be stone with the same glow as the skull areas.

The middle has panels with Runes and spaces in between that look like spirits. The panels will be stone. The spirit area will be light yellow going to green (like the Federalist).

The platform is pretty straight forward. Stone, Runes, Vines. The unique part is the blood gutters and faces connected to them. I will try some of the Rune glow around the face. I’m guessing the sacrifice and blood helps fuel this thing.

.  The upper totem that hangs on a rope will need pins to keep that in place. The dozens of place as desired items will be added at the end.

The witch doctor gator on top will be magnetized for easier transport.

This is big one. A lot of different sections. Part of this is doing things in an order that doesn’t cause anything to get reworked.

I have started to basecoat the Gators. The Pushers are very straight forward. The Witch Doctor is full of details, necklace, feather, bone knife, severed head and on and on…..

Basecoat on the stone is a mix of Coal Black and Gnarls Green. The wheels give you a better idea of the color.

The Vault is wash out by direct light, panels for spirits/skulls and the runes.

I have a choice on what next. The wheels to test the stone concept or work on the Gators.

I’m not sure this counts for work on #HobbyStreatDay, so I guess I need to do some painting.

Till next time…

Just Do It!!!

Posted in Basing, Gator, Gators, Minion, minions, Painting, Painting Motivation, pinning, project, Uncategorized | Leave a comment