It has been years since I painted any Skorne. No particular reason. I got a Mammoth a while ago and I have been slowly cleaning up the glue globs and mold marks to get that back in shape.
At GenCon 2014, I was lucky enough to pick up an Xerxis2. Love the model, very intrigued by the rules, but I waited for the theme list. I have had the book for a while. Ashlynn is done and Thyra is moving along well (I need to do an update on Gray Muffin soon, sorry), I can think about something else. With TempleCon coming, I think about painting something new to play there. Well, I have Ashlynn and Thyra you say. True, but I still want to have a goal.
First thing is a look at Xerxis2. Damn he has a lot of parts. A quick count looks like 31 parts.
The biggest part is the body. That’s a real shock!
Some of this information is pretty obvious, but some of it isn’t…
I didn’t mark where the legs go You could figure that out. On the top he has the spots for the two Horns and the two ears. I didn’t pin the ears or the 2nd Horn. I did pin the HUGE front horn. Be careful, the three little lumps under the chin might look like a mold problem and you could trim them off. This would make it very hard to attach the tassels. The chin tassels are the female tassels. The four tassels on the body of the Rhino are the male tassels.
The only real mold marks on the body was right down the middle of the belly. and a lump under the chin. Nothing really hard, just a little knife and file work. The lump under the chin is tricky. With a little bit of sculpting skill, you can make it match the rest of the Rhino’s throat. Overall, very clean and beautiful piece.
Here is a picture of the small parts.
The second horn.
Three female tassels
Four male tassels
Two spikes for the tale.
These are all fiddly little parts.I plan on gluing the ears, 2nd horn and the spikes on before I paint. When I have the body done, add the tassels, then paint the tassels.
I decided to pin it because it sticks up in the front so much. The last thing I want is someone to rip his horn off and take it to China to ground into a powder and sold as an aphrodisiac!!!
You don’t think that could happen? Look at this!!!
The Rhino Shoulder Armor has two large lumps that you have to trim. I really like the way the part if keyed to ensure you can’t put it in backwards.
Rhino Front Leg armor is again, very clean and keyed in a way that you cant put them in wrong.
I have not figured out what I am attaching before I paint him. These pieces or armor are one that may get attached after the skin on the body is done. Painting around some of these is pretty hard.
The front legs are easy to clean up and will be attached before painting.
The detail on the roaps and the articulation of the armor to allow the Rhino to run is really impressive. The only problem I see if for the Pain Giver that has to rig this beast for battle.
The back legs might be a painting problem. When attached there is a little bit of skin between the leg and body armor. With the legs attached it will be crazy to paint. So I am considering painting them separately.
These funny looking little parts are on the Rhino’s Cheeks. Good connection points and large attachment area means I don’t have to pin them. It also means I will glue them on after I paint. Again, no way to put them in wrong. They only fit one way.
Xerxis skirt has a large resin lump that is on the back edge. Be slow and careful, the area you trim will be visible on the back edge of the skirt. The folds and ripples in the pieces is amazing and will paint up so well.
I am debating the skirt. Is it worth it to magnetize it so Xerxis body will come off for easier transport. I am not sure it is needed or worth the effort.
Xerxis body, shoulders/arms and head all kind of go together. The area for the shoulders to attach is pretty good. Look at the Flail and Standard. Two huge hunks of metal. Both are out on the ends of these parts. PIN THEM. I am pinning the head too. Just to have something to hold onto while painting it.
Xerxis back has two banners. the contact points are very small for parts that long. If you get them glued and touch them, they will probably come off. Pin them!!!
The banners are nice, but the points of contact are thinner than the original. They are hard to pin, but not impossible.
The is a standard in name only. If I saw this thing coming at me, I wouldn’t even notice the cloth. That is a huge blade.
For such a large piece of metal, I was very pleased to find that it had almost no mold marks. So clean and ready to go.
The Flail is not quite as clean. It has a large mold mark that you can see in the photo.
I can see the armorer when Xerxis told him to take his Clubs and make a flail. Well, there isn’t much of a chance that he argued the order.
Parts that stick way out from the mass of the model always look good. This is a trade off for how well the mode stays together.
Xerxis arms are wonderful and have so much character. They also stickup and above the model so much you will have to be very careful not to hit them on hook them on your cloths. Constant bumping can break the arms off, screw up the paint job or even bend/break the arms.
So, I will work on stuff for Xerxis2. I have everything on this list, it is for 50 points with options. As usual I have a list for this. I even made a fancy chart!!!
Why do I include the Siege Animantarax? Because I have them painted already! The Ferox are about half done, but I have not touched them in five years. The Tyrant Commander’s Standard Bearer is broken and need repairs. The PGBH have seen a lot of use and really need some love. I only listed three beasts because that is what I plan on painting. might add more.
So this project is really quite a bit.
Until Next Time…
Just do it..